From Greco-Roman ruins to a flourishing street art scene, Amman is a fascinating old-meets-new city worth exploring, even if just en route to Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea. Here are the things you need to know before you land.
* East vs. WestVery broadly speaking, western Amman is more liberal and accustomed to expats and other visitors, while eastern Amman is more traditional and less often exposed to foreigners. The dividing line between east and west was once considered Abdoun Street and the Fourth Circle, but in modern-day Amman, visitors will find conservative and liberal pockets in areas that don’t correspond to compass directions. A good rule of thumb is to be respectful of the local culture wherever you may wander: wear modest clothing and refrain from public affection or touching between opposite sexes.
* The circlesWhen planning your trip to Amman, familiarize yourself with the eight traffic roundabouts (referred to locally simply as “circles”) connected by Zahran Street, forming the east-to-west backbone of the city. The First Circle is the easternmost and marks the start of Rainbow Street, while the Eighth Circle is near the western edge of the city. If you orient yourself to the circles, you’ll find it much easier to negotiate the city.
* Best time to visitSometime in April, cafes and restaurants throw open patios and rooftops while the city explodes in lush greenery, flowering trees and wildflowers, making spring a delightful time to enjoy Amman. April to May days are pleasant, in the 70s °F (21 – 26 °C) with nighttime lows in the 50s (10 – 15 °C) and only a few days of rain. Be sure to note if Ramadan falls during your stay, since the date shifts 11 days every year. If it does, familiarize yourself with the rules and cultural norms during the Islamic holy month.
* TerrainParts of Amman are best seen on foot – it’s a very safe city and traveling exclusively by car may mean missing the spirit of the city. A few caveats about traversing neighborhoods: because Amman is sprawled over 19 hills with three main wadis (ravines) running between, on maps, your route may look like an easy walk, but it could include a serious elevation change. Amman is also not a pedestrian culture, so be aware that sidewalks are optional and not always in the best repair. Pack comfortable shoes with good tread.
* Friday-Saturday weekendsIn Amman, as well as the entire the country, the weekends fall on Friday and Saturday. Friday mornings are the quietest time of the week, with few cars on the road, and are often a great time to explore a seemingly sleeping city. Because many Amman businesses are closed on Fridays, double check business hours for any Friday destinations on your itinerary.